Fashionable Friday - 1860's Brooklyn, New York Woman in Military Style Dress (Victorian)

This attractive young 1860’s woman is quite stylish in her military style dress. The military style dress was very popular in the Civil War era up to the early 1870’s and is recognizable by the geometric patterns on the sleeve and waist.  Although not seen in the photograph I would bet the hem of the skirt has similar patterns.  There are many things to discuss in this CDV.

First, in dating this CDV the thickness of the card tells me it was made between 1862 – 1869.  Usually when no border is present you can assume the date to be between 1862-1863, however; on inspection of the back, the revenue stamp gives us much information.  The stamp, which in itself dates the photo between 1864 and 1866, is also initialed by the photographer, E. M. Douglass, and he has added “Jan 6” which must mean Jan 1866.

The subject is identified as “Carrie Vanderveer Little.  I was very successful identifying her on Ancestry.com.  She was born as Caroline Vanderveer 31 August 1945 in Somerset, New Jersey to Philip Vanderveer and Aletta VanNest.  On 10 October 1867 she married Garret Quick Little in Somerset County, New Jersey and they had seven children. The Littles moved to Iowa sometime in the 1870’s and Carrie died there in 1915. Click here to see a photo of her later in life. According to her obituary she was a much loved woman. The photographer was E. M. Douglass of 324 Fulton St. Brooklyn, NY.

I am contacting a couple of people on Ancestry.com who appear to be descendants to see if there is interest in receiving ownership of this photo.  I will keep my readers updated.

Those Places Thursday - 1860's Actress Ada Webb

For a very long time I've wanted to post this CDV photograph of a very beautiful and contemplative young woman.  This photo was taken by C. D. Fredericks of 587 Broadway, New York, 108 Calle de la Habana, Habana, and 31 Passage du Havre, Paris. My belief is that this was taken in New York City, due to information published by Benson John Lossing¹. By looking at several things including the thin green border lines I can determine this the date of the photograph as between 1863 – 1864.

The subject is unidentified, but what is quite interesting is that while perusing Pinterest just the other night I came across this photograph of two sisters and the one on the left is most obviously my subject.  I tried to no avail to trace back to the original poster in the hopes of finding more information about that particular photograph – very frustrating indeed. 

UPDATE August 2018:  This is actress Ada Webb who often acted on the stage in the 1860's with her sister Emma Webb.

In researching the photographer, I identified him as Charles Deforest Fredericks born in 1823, died 1894.  He was born wealthy, taken to Cuba as a boy and when his father’s fortunes plummeted in the crash of 1837 he was unable to attend college.  He abandoned a finance career and sought his fortune in Venezuela.  Seeking something to fall back on he took up photography, taking lessons from Jeremiah Gurney.  After a serious misadventure in in Brazil he traveled to the United States before returning to South America.  He mastered his craft then crossed the Atlantic and using the glass negative conquered Paris.  Using the image enlarger developed by Snelling he created life size portraits and make a small fortune.

He returned to New York as a celebrity and established the successful Fredericks Studio on Broadway opposite the Metropolitan Hotel which was the largest and most stylish gallery in the city.  The studio was destroyed by fire in 1875 and relocated to 770 Broadway.  Fredericks died in 1894.

¹History of New York City, (New York, Perine, 1884), 411-13.  Charles DeForest Fredericks, The Photographic Journal of America 31 (1894), 310.

Wedding Wednesday - Unusual 1920's (Art Deco Era) Troy, New York Newlyweds

I don't even know where to start with this photograph of an 1920's newlywed couple posing with the maid-of-honor and best man.  There is certainly a lot to look at in this wedding photo taken by The Lloyd Studio of Troy, NY.  Both women are elaborately dressed, but obviously the woman on the left is the bride as she is wearing the most unusual headdress with a filmy train and lace arm mitts.  The detail is so stunning on both women's dresses and shows up quite clearing in the photo.  The bride is also wearing what appears to be her wedding rings on her right hand.  The woman on the right is wearing a beautiful headpiece made out of what appears to be pearls with Art Nouveau tones.  These were usually popular in the early to mid-1920's.  Both women are wearing pearl necklaces, also popular in that time frame.  I find it interesting that their bouquets appear to be almost equal in size, I would think the bride's would be larger.

The groom and best man are dressed nearly identically in dark suits in suits with small boutonnieres and holding white gloves.  Notice that both have their hands on the shoulders of the woman in front of them.  The man on the right has a most unusual hairstyle!  I do believe the groom has a rather dour look on his face.

The photographer was Alexander Lloyd born September 1869 in New York to parents Alexander and Mary Lloyd..  In the 1920 Troy Ward 1, Rensselaer, New York census he is married to wife Mary with a son James B. I found this ad in the February 23, 1920 edition of The Troy Times listing his address at 44 Third Street:

The Troy Times, 23 Feb 1920

Fashionable Friday - 1860's (Victorian Era) Woman Wearing Hooded Cloak & Fur Muff

I suspect this lovely young woman was considered quite fashionable when she posed for this Carte de Visite (CDV) in the 1860's (most likely between 1864 - 69) for photographer A. W. Tice of Ellensville, NY.  She is wearing a full-length hooded  cloak over a hoop skirt which was perhaps made of silk taffeta.  Covering her hands is a fur muff.  There appears to be some sort of hair covering or adornment over her hair in the back.  

The photographer's full name was Alfred Wurtz Tice who appears to have lived and worked in the Ellensville are for quite a number of years.  He wasborn 19 Oct 1829 in New York to John & Huldah Tice. In 1854 he married Irene Miller.  Several Ellensville City Directories between 1861 and 1871 report him as "A. Wurts Tice, photographer, Canal opp Liberty sq., h Canal."  In 1900 Tice was still living in the area according to the Ulster County census at age 70 with his wife June (2nd wife?).  He still listed his occupation as photographer.  Tice died 5 Feb 1909 and is buried in the Fantinekill Cemetery in Ellensville, NY according to Find-A-Grave.

Fashionable Friday - Five Stylin' 1860's Guys

I always show photographs of lovely women on Fashionable Friday so today thought I'd change things up a bit and post pictures of some fashionable and debonair gentlemen from the 1860's.

This first gentleman with the dark suit, vest and long waistcoat was probably taken in the early 1860's.  He is holding his hat in his hand and he looks quite serious.  The back of the photo is blank and no photographer or location was listed.

Unknown man, 1860's

This next young man, sporting impressive mutton chops, had a bust pose taken so all we can see is part of his jacket, his white shirt, a little bit of his vest and his tie. On the back in pencil is written "S. B. Culver Sandy Hill, N.Y."  This is most likely Stephen Berry Culver born July 1841 in Sandy Hill, New York and died in 1902.  The photo was taken by W. Nims, Photographer, East Street, Fort Edward, N.Y.  The mutton chops suggest an early 1860's date, but I am leaning to perhaps a later 1860's date.

S. B. Culver 1860's Sandy Hill, NY

 

Young man number three is wearing a light colored suit, also a long waistcoat and is posing with his hand on a chair.  He looks quite young, probably early twenties.  This CDV photo was most likely taken between 1864-1869.  The photographer was O. A. Taft's Gallery, Opposite Post Office, Middlebury, VT.

Unk, 1860's NY man

 

Next we have Uncle Sidney Morse as evidenced one the back who posed for photographer C. H. Clark in Union Village, N. Y. probably between 1864 - 69.  I found a number of subjects in the New York area with this name.  I'm not sure what a good estimate would be for this particular Sidney's birthday.  How old do you think he looks here?  Thirty-five?  Forty?  Older than that?  I don't believe that he is as old as he appears at first glance.  His suit is very stylish and the vest appears to be made of a satin-like material.

Sidney Morse, NY 1860's

 

Last, but not least, is a young gentleman who it appears has the initials, "J. N.T."  Not much help there!  This picture is actually dated March 9th, 1870, but I thought it would be a good way to end out the 1860 decade.  The hair on his head and face are very clean-cut as was more common in the late 1860's and early 1870's.  He is sitting on a velvet fringed chair with his elbow on a small table which is holding a book.  His pants are a little unusual; I believe I have seen them before, they almost look like uniform pants.  This CDV like some of this others was trimmed at the corners to fit into a photo album.  The photographer was A. Corden located at the Cor. Fourth and River Sts., Troy, N.Y.

Unknown man documented Mar 9, 1870

 

Friday's Faces From the Past - Handsome Civil War Era Buffalo, NY Couple

Geneabloggers has a weekly prompt on Fridays called Friday's Faces From the Past that is right up my alley and this week I bring you a very attractive, but unidentified Civil War era couple.  This husband and wife, and I say husband and wife with much certainty because the wife is most definitely pregnant, posed for photographer R. H, Cline of 154 (Old No. 86) Batavia St. Buffalo, NY.  Cline was Richard H. Cline who was known to have operated a studio in Buffalo between 1862 and 1873.

Unknown 1860's Buffalo, NY couple

Fashionable Friday - 1860s New York City Woman

This lovely young woman had her photograph taken by renowned photographer Fernando Dessaur in the  early to mid 1860's.  She is wearing the very common 1860's hooped skirt and very tight cinched waist.  I particularly like the button detail on her upper sleeves.  She also has the typical hairstyle of the period; parted in the middle and pulled back to the nape and secured in a snood.  Click here to see a similar dress of the era along with a Petersen's Magazine plate.

Fernando Dessaur had a photography studio at 145 Eighth  Avenue in New York City from 1850 to 1870 according to the Landmarks Preservation Commission of Manhattan.  I don't believe the earlier date is correct as his birth date is reported to be around 1840 - 1842 on Ancestry.com.  He was born in Amsterdam, Holland to Morris and Cecilia Dessaur.   According to census records the family immigrated to the US around 1860. 

Trow's NYC Directory 1872, Google eBooks

About 1870 Dessaur relocated his business to 551 Eighth Avenue in New York.  In the 1900 census of Manhattan, New York he was married to Delia with one daughter Fern aged 13.    However, according to the New York Times he also had a son named Fernando who was born about 1886 who created a bit of a scandal in 1909 when he kidnapped his daughter from his estranged wife Delia May Klock Dessaur.

Fashionable Friday - Early 1870's Glens Falls, NY Woman

This CDV photograph of an unidentified young woman from Glen Falls, NY is a bit faded but still is a great example of early 1870's photography. She is wearing the typical, curled on top of the head hairstyle, and her dress has the lace collar and intricate work that was so popular at the time. If you look closely you will notice that her lips and cheeks have been slightly tinted.  The oval frame of the card is a big clue that this is an 1870's photograph as well as the horizontal imprint on the back of the card.

The photographer was A. Orr, Jr. of Glens Falls, NY.  I did not find Orr in any census records but did find him listed on an 1876 map of Glens Falls on Ancestry.com.  I also found several mentions of Orr when I Googled him, one in the "1871 Directory of Queensbury & Glens Falls" listed as "photographer, Traphagan's Building, Ridge."   Another link shows a photograph with the photographer's mark, "C. L. Lovejoy successor to A. Orr, Jr. 1878" which suggests that either Orr sold his business before 1878 or perhaps died or moved from the area.  This mention of him at craigcamera.com suggests that the photograph in question may be a picture of  Orr himself.

Mystery Monday - 1880's Dapper Man with Bowler Hat from Medina, NY

I posted this cabinet card of an unidentified man from Medina, NY with a group of  photos the other day for Sepia Saturday, but thought he deserved another mention.  He is quite the picture of style for the times which I believe to be the late 1880's.  The handsome subject with the full mustache is wearing a three piece dark brown suit with long jacket and is holding his bowler hat in his hand.  He is also leaning on a studio prop, paper-mache column.  If you look closely you will see his unusual bow-tie made out of checkered fabric.  He also is sporting a watch chain at his waist.  

The photographer was Charles A. Stacey of Medina.  I found him on Ancestry.com in the 1880 Lockport, Niagara, NY census, born in New York  aged 23, married to Helen aged 20. He listed his parents' birthplace as England and his occupation as "photographer."  I also found this small mention:

1886 Niagara Falls City Directory (source)

Those Places Thursday - Rochester, NY, Civil War Era Photographer Myron Hawley Monroe

This CDV (Cartes de Visite) of an unknown Rochester, NY woman was taken approximately 1863 by photographer Myron Hawley Monroe. Monroe was born 3 Jul 1824 in Monroe County, NY to Joseph and Sophia (Dunham) Monroe. On 14 Jun 1848 he married Mary Elizabeth Hibbard.  

Monroe was a photographer in Rochester from at least 1858 and maybe earlier to 1883 and possibly later.    The 1861 and 1863 Rochester City Directories listed him first as having "daguerrean rooms" then as a photographer at 83 Main and 8 Pearl.

The following is a July 1863 New York State draft registration record for the Civil War, but I could find no record of him actually serving in the war.

Monroe and his wife had six children, George born ca 1851, Frank 1854, Charlotte 1859, Charles 1861, Sarah 1863 and Carrie 1866.  According to family history records on Ancestry.com, it appears that Monroe died 18 Jan 1912 in Allegany, Cattaraugus, NY, but I did not find any records to substantiate this fact.

The subject's dress and hairstyle are quite common for the era.  Her dress is particularly striking with the trim tiers around the bottom of the skirt and the fitted belt.  Her hair is parted in the middle and drawn back to the back of the neck and may possibly be in a snood.  This photograph is a favorite of mine, quite indicative of the fashions of the era.

Fashionable Friday - Stylin' Saratoga Springs, NY 1880's Guy

For this week's Fashionable Friday I thought I would mix things up a bit  and throw in a guy for a change.  This stylin' young man from Saratoga Springs, NY looks quite pleased with himself in his dapper suit and adornments. What I am assuming is the chain for his watch fob looks like paper clips!

I came by this cabinet card in an album I purchased on eBay.  This young man was identified on the page as Irving Firich or Finch. I hope to share more of this album at a later date.  I had little luck finding my Irving on Ancestry.com.  I belive this photo to have been taken late 1870's or early 1880s.    

From the 1876 Vistor's Guide to Saratoga Springs:  

W. H. Baker, Photographer, Has opened one of the finest photograph galleries, at 448 Broad- way, that can be found in the State of New York. It is a Ground Floor Gallery, and is fitted up with handsome carpets, easy chairs, and piano, and its walls are adorned with beautiful pictures of various styles of art. He is one of the most extensive photographers in Northern New York, and makes photographs from miniature to life-size, and finishes them in Crayon, Oil, Water Colors or India Ink. The "quick as a wink" process of photographing has been ndopted. Try him for a picture while at your leisure in Saratoga. He keeps a very large assortment of stereoscopic views, albums, frames and mats, which he sells at very reasonable prices. He is always pleased to have visitors call at his gallery, and is very polite in exhibiting a full assortment of beautiful pictures.

Here is the back of the card:

Fashionable Friday - 1880's Bainbridge, NY Woman

This young woman from Bainbridge, NY is leaning on an 1870's prop chair, but I believe this Cabinet Card to be dated probably around 1883 give or take a year.    She is wearing a bustled dress with fitted bodice made out of a gingham fabric of some sort, but look at all the lovely soutache trim down the front of the bodice, the sides of the skirt and around her neck and cuffs. The dress is also adorned with lace at the cuffs and on the bodice.  The image below is from the 1883 Peterson's Magazine May edition, it is one of the two-page hand-colored steel fashion plates that were in each monthly edition.  While these dresses are in no way the same dress our subject is wearing you can see some similarities in the first dress on the left in the high cut of the neckline, in the checkered gingham material of the fourth dress as well the cut of the bottom of the overcoat which tapers around the hips to pointed corners.  (Forgive me if I am not using correct terminology - I am not a seamstress or fashionista).

May 1883 Peterson's Magazine "The Sea-Shore"

Finally concerning our subject, her hairstyle was very common in the early to mid- 1880's with the curly fringed bangs and the length of her hair braided up on top of her hair.  I found this similar illustration of in the same 1883 Peterson's Magazine.  This style, either with short hair or hair in a bun and off the neck and ears, allowed the woman to wear the high necklines that were in style.

1883 Hairstyle Peterson's Magazine

The photographer was most likely Sheldon S. Wheeler of Otsego, New York which was a small town near Bainbridge.  He was born in January 1854, the son of John H. and Lovina Wheeler of Otsego.  His father's occupation was gunsmith.  In the 1880 Otsego Federal census Sheldon age 26 was living with his wife Kate age 23 and he listed his occupation as photographer.  They were married in 1877 according to the 1900 Berkshire, MA census and divorced before 1910. Before 1915 he remarried Belle Strohbeen the mother of three teenage children.

Mystery Monday - Unidentified Rochester, NY Woman

These two cabinet card photographs are obviously of the same woman from Rochester, New York. What is interesting to me is that although taken by the same photographer, I am not totally certain that these photos were taken on the same day. She is wearing the same dress but there are some slight differences in the two pictures if one cares to look closely.  In the first picture our lovely subject is wearing the typical 1880's bustled dress with fitted bodice.  The bodice has a number of buttons, around twenty, down the pleated front. At her neck she is wearing a pin/brooch in the shape of a letter "D" which makes you wonder if her name perhaps started with that letter.  She also has white lace jutting out from under the top of the neckline of her dress.  This photograph is a full-figure pose and she is standing with her hand resting on a studio prop faux, wooden chair; behind her the backdrop is a large tree trunk.  She is wearing a curly hairstyle that was so popular with women in the mid 1880's.

The second photograph is a bust pose in which we can only see the top half of her dress but it is obviously the same dress.  If you look closely however, you will see that there is no lace sticking out of the neckline as in the first photo. Additionally, in the photo she is wearing a different brooch at her neck in the shape of  flower with stem and leaf.  She is also wearing a pair of small drop earrings which I am not sure if she is wearing them or not in photograph number one. She is wearing a necklace of some sort in the first photo with a square-shaped charm that is sticking out of her buttons mid-way down the placket of her bodice.  I believe she is also wearing this in the second photo.  Her hairstyle looks very much the same in both photographs.

My question about our mystery woman would be, did she have these photos taken the same day and change accessories or were they perhaps taken some time apart and she wore the same dress? The photographer is a bit of a mystery as well - the front of the card says "Pomeroy Gallery" while the back says McMahon & Nelson.  I did find a mention of McMahon & Nelson in the 1887 Rochester, New York City Directory.  Due to certain clues in these pictures this is also about the time I would date these photos, 1885 - 1888.

Fashionable Friday - 1880's Woman from Cazenovia, NY

This photograph of a lovely young woman from Cazenovia, New York is quite interesting to me as I find myself increasingly fascinated with the fashions of prior generations. There is nothing written on this cabinet card to identity this woman or when it was taken but there are a few clues to perhaps help date the photo. The card is a dark maroon color with the backside being grey which was popular starting around 1884. The dress on this young woman is so common to the 1880's woman with the very fitted, bustled dress. Note the ruching surrounded by buttons from neckline to waistline and a very trim waistline it is! The sleeves on her dress have ruched cuffs that match that bodice. Her beautiful dress has a high neckline with lace and is adorned with a pin or brooch of some sort. Her hairstyle was quite common of the 1886-1888 woman and it is with all these clues that I date this photo with this time frame.

The photographer was Marshall Bros. of Cazenovia, N.Y., most likely Charles Marshall, however I could find very little to identify and date Charles Marshall and nothing in Ancestry.com.  Also note his monogram at the bottom center of the card; these started around 1886.  There was a very short mention of him on this page:  

http://www.rootsweb.ancestry.com/~nyccazen/MscLists/Photographers.html

To give you some similar mid-1880 fashions to compare with this photograph I have included the following:

http://pinterest.com/pin/16114511137125915/

Although not an exact match to our subject's dress, this dress is from the 1884 Peterson's Magazine and is in the same era.